We had the privilege of hosting two wonderful friends earlier this week, and naturally that meant that we tried to pick the perfect restaurant to show them in Venice a full week prior. Our first choice being closed on Tuesdays, we settled on another that we thought would fit their tastes – a lively osteria with homecooking-style local food and laid back setting. Given that we’d always found a table there, we didn’t even bother to call ahead to book. After finishing off the obligatory pre-dinner tapas (cicchetti in Venezia) and cocktails, we ambled towards Rialto and down the small side street where the osteria was hidden to find.. nothing. It was closed. I racked my brain a little, and then remembered another one of our off-the-beaten-track spots.
Sometimes, however, when you’re looking for something, you stumble upon something else – and going with the gut feeling of it, you find something new and beautiful.
We were still ten minutes away on foot from the restaurant I had in mind when we stopped at the menu in the window of Osteria Ai Promessi Sposi. I wasn’t immediately convinced – but my partner and friends were eager to try it, with one of them specifically citing ‘a feeling’. And so, in we went.
In another post, I described the difference between the names of dining establishments in Italy (ristorante / osteria / trattoria). While the definition still wasn’t adhered to strictly, the characteristics of an Osteria were more plain to see here: a straightforward dining concept, with house wine by the liter carafe, and friendly, amiable staff.
We were shown directly through the restaurant to an inner courtyard, where four other tables sat, chatting happily over their meals. There was a certain warmth in the air, even between diners: a twinkle in everyone’s eye of having been let in on a secret. My friends had been right – this place had a good feeling to it.
For a while, we hesitated over ordering a starter, but eventually caved and ordered two to share – and thank goodness for that.
The first was straciatella di bufala – a soft, fresh cheese whose recipe could only have been passed onto Italy by the Roman gods. Here, it was foamed and topped with anchovies, sun-dried tomatoes, onions and capers. Smeared onto some bread, or simply eaten with a spoon, it was a fantastic opener.
The second starter took a little side step away from Italian cuisine, showcasing gorgeous layers of smoked salmon surrounded by a ring of Tropea onion cooked in saor — a typical Venetian sweet and sour sauce. On top, a salted butter cream, and some crackers on the side. The star here was absolutely the onions, who between four forks certainly ran out a little too fast. Despite its surprising presence on this menu, it was another refreshing addition to the evening.
It’s very rare that I forget to take a photograph of what I’m eating before I start. But when this plate of wonder was set in front of me, and I got even a little smell of what was to come, my fingers went to my fork first before my phone. Calamarata pasta (slightly narrower than paccheri, but more or less the same concept) with octopus ragù and nduja sauce. The pasta was perfectly al dente – slightly chewy without being crunchy, with the sauce perfectly enhancing the octopus meat without overpowering it. All three of us who had ordered the same dish were in heaven. I had initially asked when ordering for some extra chili to be brought to the table – but it was absolutely unnecessary. Anything stronger would have been overdoing it – and this was a master of balance.
My partner is (nearly) incapable of ordering anything else on a menu once he sees that they have amatriciana on offer. So when he noticed it here, paired with some scallops and prawns and calamarata pasta, the choice was made. This dish was elegant and wholesome without being heavy, putting on display again a harmony of pasta and sauce.
Restaurant service is something I find important to comment on. When people go out to eat someplace, they are not simply going out to eat. While a waiter’s smile or description of a plate may not be what makes the evening, the lack thereof (as I’ve mentioned previously) can almost always break it.
At Osteria Ai Promessi Sposi, the service was exactly what the context demanded. There was a warmth to the introductions, the presentations and check-ins by every member of the serving staff. Almost every time a dish (or another carafe of wine) was brought out to us, a little joke was cracked. The table was cleared of dishes when needed, and we were left to linger for as long as we wanted after without feeling rushed or unwelcome.
We ended our culinary visit there, all gushing about how we’d nearly missed out on this little hidden paradise and continuing, throughout the evening and into the morning, to reminisce on each dish.
It immediately went down into our notes for another visit – we haven’t even touched the main course or dessert menu yet!
Osteria ai Promessi Sposi
Calle dell’Oca, 4367, 30121 Venezia VE, Italy
