“Oh, you like natural wine? You’d love Estro!”
”Devi assolutamente andare a mangiare a Estro, è perfetto per te.” (You absolutely have to go eat at Estro; it’s perfect for you.)
Situated just north of Dorsoduro, the San Polo district is known for hosting a few natural wine bars as well as several ‘must visit’ local spots. These two quartiers, alongside the northern end of Canaregio, are my firm favourites for eating out. I’d walked past Estro a few times, every time making yet another mental note to pop in – even if just to buy some wine.
After nearly 8 months of its name living in my ‘to visit’ list and receiving yet another recommendation, I finally obliged.
Dario Spezzamonte (the owner) is a passionnant extraordinaire of the natural wine movement. Aside from offering only natural wines in this, his second restaurant in Venice, he also co-hosts a natural wine podcast in Italian called Guarda Mamma, Senza Solfiti (“Look Ma, no sulfites!”).
As I walk in, Dario is pouring a pint from the spina (tap). We exchange briefly, and I’m escorted to my table and presented with the menu.
The interior boasts a classic bistro palette of black and red. The lighting, above, speaks to its geography: gorgeous, contemporary cylindrical Murano glass lamps hanging from a ceiling of dark exposed wooden beams. The wall on the opposite side of the room is covered from top to bottom with racks and racks and racks of natural wine in various colours – each label more provocative than the previous.
Alongside à la carte, Estro offers two tasting menus: one for those looking for something classically Venetian, and another made up of the diners’ choice of three dishes from the menu. An accompaniment of wine is also available for each option.
Once I’ve made my selection and my menu is taken, Dario comes back to my table to advise me on the wine, and shortly after, the waitress returns with the amuse bouche.
A tempura sardine, dipped ever so lightly in a teriyaki sauce and served on a skewer. Alongside, a gaspacho of tomato and watermelon with balsamic vinegar.
“To be eaten separately,” she adds, after the full explanation.
Deep frying is a delicate art that requires an equally delicate balance. For every soft, fluffy tempura I’ve encountered, there are at least five which were under- or overcooked, greasy or just altogether unpleasant. This little welcome bite fell squarely into the first category, delivering a perfectly airy ‘crunch’, while sacrificing none of the essential sardine flavours.
The gaspacho was similarly impressive. While I’ve become accustomed to many a homemade tomato-and-cucumber ‘smoothie’ throughout the past summer in Italy, the addition of watermelon here added an extra layer of freshness – further brightened by the smooth layer of balsamic vinegar.
The wine for this, as well as the starter, was I Cacciagalli’s 2019 Aorivola.
Falanghina is a varietal of Greek origin who has made her home in Italy since the days of the Roman Empire. After its fall, she – like many retirees, moved South, and is now mostly found in Campania. Despite having been abandoned as a style in previous years, she is quickly regaining her popularity, and a wine like this perfectly demonstrates why. Here, she played especially nicely with the sardine and teriyaki – bringing a fruity balance to the umami flavours.
It’s starters up next, and I’ve chosen the carnivore option: veal tongue with caramelised Tropea onions, fig, and an apricot sauce.
As a kid, the thought of eating tongue was enough to put me off an entire Sunday lunch. As an adult, I can’t get enough of the tender cuts – and this was the most tender piece of meat I’ve ever had the pleasure of biting into.
Beef and apricot is a classic Moroccan pairing, typically reserved for slow roasts. Here, despite the light-touch style of cooking, its depth and tartness succeeded in marrying Italian and African flavours, which were further enriched by the wine (still Falanghina) to complete an absolutely faultless pairing.
Next was the mains: fettuccine pasta with clams, bottarga & peppers.
In most Venetian restaurants, pasta with clams are served shelled, which generally means that you have to factor in a good 10-15 minutes of deshelling time before you can eat. It’s a beautiful dish, but it’s also a bit of a pain. Estro eliminates this extra hurdle by serving this pasta deshelled, and adds an extra spoonful of bottarga. The peppers serve as an extra twist to the Venetian classic, further brightening the already flavoursome dish.
Alongside, a glass of Sbarbi Barbera rosé by Lèloups – a super fresh and crisp wine. While enjoyable, I’m not convinced that this is a wine that should be paired with shellfish. The red peppers in the pasta, however, contributed greatly to bring about a decent accord between the flavours. I’m mainly at fault here for the less than perfect pairing – as I insisted on a rosé.
At this point in a meal, I’ve usually resigned myself to having enjoyed the best on offer at a restaurant. Desserts have become decidedly unimportant in my dining experiences, and it takes a lot to change that mindset. This dessert, however, might have done the trick.
A base of cream of mascarpone, covered in almond crumble and topped with raspberry reduction and lemon sorbet. Despite the multitude of flavours, there was no competition for the tastebuds. Everything on the plate came together in a refreshing and fruity balance.
For pairing, a dessert wine to challenge all those who are anti-dessert wine (myself, included). The Perpetuo by Vecchio Samperi is technically a marsala, but unfortified. This method involves a kind of perpetual fermentation (hence the name), where every year since 1978, a little wine has been added to the barrel, and a little removed for the vintage in question. This is a flavoursome concoction, without any of that sickly sweetness. Bursting with almond and caramel on the nose, it stretches out into a gorgeous earthy palate, all tied together with just a touch of citrus zing. Once again a perfect pairing.
As I lean back in my chair, I’m keenly aware of the fact that this is one of the best meals I’ve had in Venice – and not only for its food & wine.
The service was a perfect mirror of both the food and the atmosphere: seriously good, without taking itself too seriously. Throughout the meal, I was attended to interchangeably by a waitress and the owner, who were both friendly and eager to supply details. It’s a tough task to create an environment which is simultaneously professional and laid-back, but Estro have got it down.
Book your table at Estro here.
Listen to the Guarda Mamma, Senza Solfiti podcast here. (Only in Italian)